Tomorrow is New Year’s Eve. We Westerners already had our shot at reflecting on the past year and resolving for the next, but in Nepal the annual turnover happens in April. In fact, there are nine new years that take place in this country, thanks to the wide spread of ethnicities and religions within Nepal’s borders. This particular New Year, the one that takes place at midnight between April 13 and April 14, is a secular one much like our Western New Year – drinks and reveling, parties in the clubs, enjoying the ping of midnight. The other new year celebrations, however, are tied to religious customs and are, I think, far more interesting.
There are so many religious festivals and rituals here that it is really difficult to keep track. I have attended and participated in so many over the years, and yet I am constantly learning about new (to me) ones. Yesterday, for example, after receiving my security briefings at the US Embassy, a fellow Fulbright researcher informed me that, in a few hours, there would be a very significant Tibetan Buddhist event taking place just ten minutes from the house where I am staying. Naturally, I dropped all plans for the day and scooted over to Shechen Gompa, near the Boudhanath Stupa. What I saw that afternoon was truly unlike anything I have ever seen. Hours of dancing, leaping monks, at least fifty in elaborate masks and silk robes. They danced to entertain and excite the crowds, and they danced to purify the space in preparation for the main event.
Finally, the center of the courtyard was set with chairs, long carpets, and a throne. From the main entrance of the monastery began an extended procession of all the adult monks of Shechen. They blessed the space with incense, drums and oboes, chanting, and precious ritual objects like giant conch shells and butter lamps. It was extraordinary to watch. The procession also included clowns, a few young monks in masks that resembled Chairman Mao, and a bizarre assortment of costumed characters that were likely meant to represent some spread of diversity (typical Nepali, traditional Sherpa, white man in a Native American regalia headdress…?).
Then came the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. I do not yet really understand what that means, but I know it is special. There were eight monks embodying these eight manifestations, dressed in varying expressions of silk robes and each with a different mask to signify a particular manifestation. Following these manifestations was the Guru Rinpoche himself, fully enveloped by a giant Buddha statue and carried on a platform by several monks. The crowd throbbed and swelled as the sacred being entered the courtyard and was seated upon the throne. More sacred dances followed the procession, though these were more delicate, almost intimate.
When the procession had settled down, individuals from the crowd began stepping up to Guru Rinpoche and the eight manifestations to offer prostrations, money, and kata, sacred silk scarves. A Chinese woman offered one lakh rupees, the equivalent of about $900 – an enormous amount in Nepal. Others offered more humble gifts to the central deity and then distributed ten-rupee notes (approximately a dime) to the monks arranged around the courtyard. Many people forgot to give money to the musician monks, somewhat tucked away in a corner. I left having offered nothing but hoping the blessings filtered over to me too.
Comments